When the water runs out, there are no good options. One of the poorest regions in Texas faces an uncertain future. By Rachel Monroe
The smell that comes from a sugar mill operating at full capacity is malty and industrial, something like fermented molasses. “Normal people don’t like it, but, for us, it’s the smell of a sugar mill running. So I love that smell,” Cain Garcia told me last month, with some wistfulness. Three months earlier, Garcia’s employer, the Rio Grande Valley Sugar Growers, Inc., the last remaining sugar mill in Texas, had announced that it was shutting down its operations for good. Texas’s sugar industry, at one time the third biggest in the country, had effectively collapsed, a casualty of the increasingly dire water situation along the Rio Grande. The river’s two main reservoirs in Texas are at historically low levels, and cane farmers, unable to irrigate their water-intensive crops, are plowing them up. |
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